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"Ten" someone shouts out, "Nine" the chorus rings, "eight...seven...six...five", the team starts getting up momentum, "four! three! Two! ONE! Happy New Year!". A chant many are familar with, and no doubt uttered it themselves over the joyous season, except when we were crying it out the event of new years had already finished two days ago, it was around mid-afternoon, and we were sitting in Onsfontein. In Bilene. In Mozambique. Surrounded by a team of premium individuals, we had claimed the small thatched roof sitting area of the campsite as our own, "Onsfontein". Whittling away the afternoon with our local friends Laurentina (Stout and Beer), and 2M (said Dush-em in portuguese, just a Beer).
Mozambique is a slice of peach pie, a real after dinner treat. It is easy to get lost in paradise when you are sitting thigh deep in luke warm blue waters, looking alternately at your deep and growing tan and the almost unreal white sand beaches. It was not perfect though, there is unbelievable poverty around, and the local tradesman crowd around ZA cars like flies, happy to sell anything for any currency, negotiating the rate of exchange almost simultaneous to the cost of the goods. The civil war left a trail of now defunct white elephants. Derelect buildings surround by scrub and banana trees seem to purposlessly litter the whole country, including such treasures as the dilapidated hotel near the beach we stayed on. Single room apartments accomodate only trees and small plants on the sand bank up the way from us, and it is said that the urban ruins of Maputo are even more dazzling.
It feels like Mozambique is rising out of the ashes to become South Africa's affordable paradisical playground again. It seems a bit odd to see the juxtaposition of joburgers in four times fours (worth around 500 Million Metacais, the local currency) and the locals who are happy to recieve a few thousand metacais for goods. Maybe you can linger on the unfairness of it all, maybe you don't really care, in fact, I think some people even laugh about how well they bargained a few thousand metacais off of the price of a local's livelyhood. I am not putting all South African holiday makers in a box of flaunting disrespect for the well being of another country and it's inhabitants, but there certainly are a few assholes who really take the piss out. See how they rip up the sand dunes on their four wheelers, see them destroying the fish nursary in the splashers on their jetskis. Relegated from the now guarded Sodwana and St. Lucia estury these guys are laughing all the way from Johannesburg to the ocean, packing bigger bikes, faster power boats, and a wallet stuffed with local currency. With all the savings they are getting on having their holiday in a country with a severly weak economy they can easily afford another beach mobile for their five year old. Money can buy happiness. Easily. The local people have a definate and justifiable antagonism towards the tourists. Maybe it is two separate issues though.
Ranting aside, and if you ignored the drone of petrol engines during afternoon naps, and did not think of crushed dune and sea life, it is an otherwise stupendously beautiful place. I would just ask that if you do go, please respect the country and people around you, and possibly sit down and give the five year old tearing up the dune life a lesson in ecology.
The day of travel back to South Africa marked my first official month with Amanda Joseph, as well as the start of a two week stay with her in Johannesburg.
** Update Mandy uploaded some photos of Mozambique to her gallery.
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